{"id":7837,"date":"2024-02-26T16:59:46","date_gmt":"2024-02-26T16:59:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magazine.pellealvegetale.it\/?p=7837"},"modified":"2024-02-28T09:37:35","modified_gmt":"2024-02-28T09:37:35","slug":"craft-the-leather-announced-the-winner-of-the-ninth-edition-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magazine.pellealvegetale.it\/en\/craft-the-leather-announced-the-winner-of-the-ninth-edition-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Craft the Leather: announced the winner of the tenth edition"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The winner<\/strong> of the tenth edition of the competition Craft the Leather<\/em>, a project partnering the Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium<\/em> and international schools with a culture of making, is Balbina Brunell from Parsons School of Fashion, NYC USA <\/strong>with the collection \u201cAn Analogy of Tarnished Culture\u201d.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The evaluations expressed by the Technical Jury were combined with the votes of the visitors collected at Lineapelle<\/em> and on the Consortium<\/em>‘s social media to determine the winner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After her participation in the workshop in Tuscany, Balbina Brunell <\/strong>presented a capsule collection <\/strong>made up of three accessories <\/strong>inspired by both the physical reaction of tannins in veg tan leather to iron and the consideration of her roots in the industrial city of <\/em>Monterrey, Mexico. In her collection An Analogy of Tarnished Culture<\/em><\/strong>, <\/em>she explores gestures of traditional cultural expression in strongly sculptural forms that can be bags, containers and body ornament.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Balbina reflects that: <\/p>

In today’s rapidly changing world, the tension between traditional culture and global development is often palpable. This collection unravels the two conflicting forces of heritage and gentrification coalescing into one, contributing to a deeper understanding of how culture evolves in the modern age.<\/em><\/p>

Drawing inspiration from my own heritage, these products reference and distort signifiers of Mexican culture on veg tan leather with a steel corroded surface design. This process is made possible by the leather’s natural ability to evolve and transform boundlessly allowing the rusted materiality to obscure and industrialize the initial inspiration emerging<\/em> An Analogy of Tarnished Culture<\/em><\/strong> <\/em>made entirely and exclusively of vegetable-tanned leather provided by member companies.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

The<\/em> Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium<\/em><\/strong> awards a cash prize to the winner as a contribution to continuing their education.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The expert jury, which evaluated the collections taking into account various indicators from both a technical and design point of view, unanimously expressed a special mention for the \u201cWearing Etiquette\u201d <\/strong>collection by Shiyu Gong <\/strong>from the London College of Fashion <\/strong>in London .<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The in-person vote at Lineapelle<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For professional visitors to Lineapelle<\/em>, the collection that was most appreciated, was \u201cLeather Waves<\/strong>\u201d by Alessandro Brienza<\/strong> of the Accademia Italiana<\/strong> in Florence<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The social vote<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the social channels of the Vera Pelle Consortium, where it was possible to vote until 4pm on 23 February 2024, followers’ likes rewarded the “Eternal Vitality” <\/strong>collection by Bingbing Bai <\/strong>of Kingston University <\/strong>in London.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The sum of all the votes collected proclaims BALBINA BRUNELL o<\/strong>f the Parsons School of Fashion<\/strong> in New York<\/strong> the winner of the 10th Craft the Leather International Creative Competition 2023, <\/strong>with the collection \u201cAn Analogy of Tarnished Culture\u201d.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Everyone involved in Craft the Leather and the Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium join to offer our congratulations to Balbina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

THE PROJECT<\/strong><\/h1>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Craft The Leather <\/strong>is a training project of the Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium, by invitation only, dedicated to a group of talented young designer\/makers from all over the world. The schools, selected from among the most prestigious and innovative international fashion and design institutes with a culture of making, participate with a teacher and their most promising student.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The project is divided into two phases with a training workshop in the summer of 2023 in the Tuscan Tanning District, to learn about the qualities and potential of a leather created according to a centuries-old tradition and highest environmental and ethical standards. In the second half of the year each designer creates a collection using exclusively leather provided by the Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Project Tutor<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Diane Ellen Becker <\/strong>Creative consultant, who has worked in the all aspects of the specialty leather business from visual merchandiser and buyer to designer of high-end leather goods and shoes, specializing in international trend research, consultancy for brand identity and educational activities, both to fashion\/design professionals and educational institutes. Focus on sustainable design and creative use of resources.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

EDITION 2023\/24<\/em><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Designers at Craft the Leather 2023<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alessandro Brienza <\/strong>\u2013 Accademia Italiana<\/strong> – Italy<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cierra Headings <\/strong>\u2013 College for Creative Studies<\/strong> \u2013 USA<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kerli Valter <\/strong>\u2013 Estonian Academy of Arts<\/strong> \u2013 Estonia<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Karitas Span\u00f2 <\/strong>\u2013 Iceland University of the Arts<\/strong> \u2013 Iceland<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bingbing Bai <\/strong>\u2013 Kingston University<\/strong> \u2013 UK<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shiyu Gong <\/strong>\u2013 London College of Fashion<\/strong> \u2013 UK<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Balbina Brunell <\/strong>\u2013 Parsons School of Fashion<\/strong> \u2013 USA<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ioana Stefanescu <\/strong>\u2013 University of Technology Eindhoven<\/strong> \u2013 the Netherlands<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Jury evaluation criteria<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Relevance of the creative concept<\/strong> to the intrinsic qualities of vegetable tanning
– Innovative use <\/strong>of vegetable tanned leather
– Aesthetic<\/strong> excellence
– Manual skill \u2013 manual ability<\/strong> in creating the product
– Coherence and harmony<\/strong> of the collection. Does the collection tell a story<\/strong>?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jury Members<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n